Get ready to learn to surf in Bali!
‘This sport is all about commitment, so keep at it even if it’s just for a paddle! Once you caught your first wave you will never want to leave the water again.’ Thanks Val! Find out more about Val and her brand LAYA bikini on her website www.layabikini.com or Instagram. Would you like to learn to surf in Bali?
Finding the right wave
When you learn to surf in Bali, it’s essential to know how to pick the right waves. It determines the length and speed of your ride, as well as the manoeuvres you might be able to pull on. If you just learned surfing, stay where it’s a little more shallow and try to catch already broken waves. Once you get more confident and mastered your pop-up, try paddling further out to catch green/unbroken waves. I suggest watching the waves for a while so you can figure out which way the waves are breaking and where to position yourself. Ideally, you will be looking for a wave that will peel down the line, not one that will close out immediately. Oh and if you’re still learning, try to stay on the shoulder so you’re not in the way of other surfers.
Trying to tackle the green wave
You made it out the back and passed the whitewash. Now it’s time to wait until the right wave comes through. If you spotted one, make sure you’re in the right spot (be careful to not drop on in on anybody) and start paddling. When it comes to green waves you need to paddle a lot harder than when you try to catch whitewash…(you may wanna do some push-ups before your surf) Once you feel the wave is starting to pick you up, push your upper body o the board, feel the momentum and quickly get to your feet. I know this is said a lot easier than done. It will take time to get on your feet quickly and keep the balance. Check the tides and swell!
How to master the drop
Dropping into a wave seems to be everyone’s biggest fear at the start. It’s easy to paddle and it’s fairly easy to ride a wave once you are on your board. BUT the drop makes it all a little more challenging. So here are my tips to nail it:
- Paddle hard to gain enough speed.
- Have confidence. You need to be a 100% committed to the wave when taking on . 80% and you simply won’t make it. Give a 100% and you’ll see where it takes you.
- Make sure you always look up and in the direction you aim to go. Don’t look at your feet and your board, you will loose balance quicker.
- Once you feel the momentum of the wave (this is important, if you don’t have enough momentum you won’t be able to catch the wave), push your body o the board.
- Get on your feet in one smooth motion and as quickly as possible.
- MY TIP: practice pop-up’s in your bedroom or the beach before your surf. This will help you to get used to the movement and will make it easier out in the water.
- Keep low. Bend your knees. This will help you to keep your balance and to be more in control of your surfboard
So you mastered catching a wave, you’re pretty confident standing up and keeping your balance, now it’s time to try and do a turn. A good bottom turn will convert all the speed you created from your take o to shoot down the line and will help you with other manoeuvres you may want to try out later such as a cutback. So as you drop into the face of the wave, make sure you always keep low and bend your knees, look into the direction you want to go, shift your weight towards the inside rail. If you feel like you’re losing speed, start carving small turns to help pump speed. Remember always to look in the direction you aim to go, you’ll see your body will move accordingly. Why cuts in Bali heal slower than anywhere else?
Stay calm and always stay comfortable
Surfing in Bali you have to be at the right spot: With Home Sweet Home you can find your perfect accommodation next to the beach ready to jump into the water. Simply use the filter function and search for the best surf spots in Bali and find other things to do in Kuta & Seminyak, Bukit Area and Canggu.
Do you need a surf instructor?
Andre opens the doors for surfing to beginners. In the classes, you learn about your board, your body technique and about how to read the ocean and the waves. Andres goal is to make you stand up in the first lesson!